You know how sometimes you just screw up in a mysterious way you can’t put your finger on? This is exactly what happened here: I had a previously fitted pattern, a seemingly good quality fabric, a vision of what I wanted to get out of them, and I still managed to fuck up. Twice. And today I decided to give up on having fitting faux leather pants, because it’s just not going to happen.
My first issue here was that I hadn’t used the pattern in a couple of years, and blindly assumed that same measurements would equal same shape. Nope. I’m somehow different. Should have probably started over with a fresh, un-adjusted pattern. Now I had one with so many mods already that it just got really difficult to tell what was wrong and how to fix it. And it’s possible that the whole pattern was a wrong choise to begin with.
My main issue with pants -especially slim fitted- is the size difference between my butt and tighs. This is something I haven’t been able to solve at all: how do you adjust for full butt without adding ease to upper tigh? I mean, I can’t be the only person in the world with stick-like legs, and I’ve even found fitting rtw jeans. So how does this become a huge obstacle when I want to make pants? Like this time it seemed clear that my first version of these pants were too tight in the back but ok at tighs, but I couldn’t figure out where to add ease without adding it everywhere.
So, being in a blinded state of “of course I can solve this” I rather randomly did the same full butt adjustment I had already done once before and got more fabric. I’d really like to kick myself in the face because of this, because it only resulted in too loose pants with all topstitching done being worn once and then abandoned on the chair with “I need to do something about these” status for months. I found the pants today and tried narrowing the leg, but honestly, the fit at waist and hips is god awful, and I’m never ever wearing those things outside my kitchen. Ok, maybe not god awful, but the kind that I don’t want to see when I look in the mirror. It looks home made, and I want people to look surprised when I say I made my clothes, ok? And this more in line with the clothes I made as a teenager, and I’m way past that.
The second issue making things worse might have been the fabric. I’m not 100% sure, but it felt like the pants stretched in use about two sizes. As in, they looked semi good on me right after finishing, but began to feel loose during the one and only day I wore them. I have a vague memory of sucking in my stomach to get the zip closed, but now it’s more like I have to hold the pants up before closing the button. So yeah, it’s possible that there was nothing I could have done to make this work, other than a massive amount of negative ease to begin with. And how was I supposed to know?
All in all this whole project just makes me gringe. It’s like a way too long visit to the dark side of sewing, and I just want to forget everything about it. All the wrong choises, wasted materials, rushing into making something I wasn’t sure about and the feeling I’m a weird shape.
I think it’s been more depressing -if you want to be dramatic about pants fitting- than usual because I’ve had a pants problem all winter, and feel awkward for not having the perfect skinny jeans I’m used to having. For about ten years I had a go-to pair of jeans, but now it’s gone out of production, and I’ve been forced to settle on a less-than-perfect. It also seems that the shape has changed again from last year (it’s some skinny jean from Nudie, Skinny Linn or something like that), and now I’m back at too loose at leg, too short at crotch and feeling uncomfortable and annoyed.
I’m sort of trying to solve the problem of feeling put together by making new dresses that would equal owning an exellent pants. More on that and learning to make a full bust adjustment at 34 later.